Rambles around Chawton

Chawton House Library is closed on weekends–which means that I have an excuse reason to explore the area rather than the archives. Thanks to the endlessly helpful Darren Bevin (head Librarian at Chawton House Library, see here for a fun archival discovery he shared with me recently), I am armed with the local Ramblers guide Walks from Alton by Alan Titchmarsh and also two editions of Anne-Marie Edwards’ book In the Footsteps of Jane Austen, a guide to walks that Austen (referred to throughout this otherwise helpful guide as “Jane”) may have taken.

When Domesticated Animals Attack

I started the day at the Jane Austen House Museum in Chawton, which is less than half a mile from the “Great House” (barn) where I am staying. The Museum is a must see, of course, for all Austen readers, since it is the house from which Austen revised and published all her novels.  Here is how it looks from the street:

Jane Austen House Museum

 

High points of the collection include Austen’s father’s writing desk, Kelly Clarkson Jane Austen’s turquoise ring and topaz cross (a la Fanny Price.) My favorite thing, of course, was her writing desk. It’s so small! How could she do so much with so little?

Writing Desk

Having spent 45 minutes at the museum, I was ready to move on. Following a public footpath, I crossed a few stiles, and met these locals, who came running across the paddock to greet me. How I understood Richardson’s Pamela anew! (Remember the bull in the back garden?)

Is this a friendly welcome???!

 

(What are they, by the way? Sheep? Rams? Goats?)

Okay–I’ll admit it. These fellows are only about thigh high. But those ARE horns. Ahem.

Gothic Navigation

Many of the paths consist of vague tracks connecting stiles set into the electric fences. Mercifully, there are frequent signposts with arrows pointing the direction to cross the pastures (past whatever livestock is in residence). The wayposts are charming:

Actually, I was lost when I climbed this path, but it was worth it!

Swan Swamps

Due to the recent catastrophic storms, some of the pastures are still under water, and I found myself–barefoot in a sheep pasture–wading past swans on the way to Farringdon today:

Opportunistic swans, making use of the temporary stream

Proof of my heroism, braving sheep dung in the pursuit of exercise

 

But such heroics (come on, now–that’s heroic!) were rewarded when, after a few miles lovely walking through a wood, I came to the Elizabethan village of Upper Farringdon, with its 13th century church (look closely at the parish name, Austen lovers) and incredibly friendly cats:

Not an abbey, but the church is (partly) 13th century

 

Farringdon Church, exterior

Farringdon Church altar

Lower Farringdon vista

Dinner

Both adorable and delicious

After all that walking, I had to rush home to catch the Sunday Roast at Greyfriars: Yorkshire pudding, mashed carrots, roasted potatoes, and lamb. Baaaaa.